Phil: Cornell behavior consult on dog-cat standoff
Question:
Hi Cate, Before opting for the behavior clinic, you may want to try keeping Emily from having access to the basement, and providing vertical "safe havens" for her upstairs. Cats generally prefer the "high ground" – bookshelves, the top of china cabinets, atop refrigerators – atop the fridge would be a good place to keep her food & water bowls. You may also want to get her a 5′ or 6′ cat tree. You can easily construct a few high window perches with just two decorative shelf brackets and finished 12" shelving covered with carpet. You can construct these window perches across the center of the windows – where the upper and lower sections meet so not to interfere with opening and closing or blocking light. Window perch kits are available at Petsmart, however, these kits rest on the window sill – might not be high enough for Emily to feel safe. When I had dogs, also, my cats would travel from the living room, to the dining room, to the kitchen without touching the floor! About 60′! — reminiscent of "Tarzans" travelling through the "jungle" on vines without touching the ground! 
To a cat "up" is a good place to be! You can see farther, and you can leap down on the "enemy"; you can check out your territory… and you’re safe from the dog! So think "up"! I really think vertical safe havens will work – but if it they don’t, I can put you in touch with someone at Cornell (who I firmly believe was a cat in a previous life) who may (most likely will) have better ideas which probably won’t require the behavior clinic. Let me what you think. Good luck. Phil. — "Cat people are different, to the extent that they generally are not conformists. How could the be, with a cat running their lives?" –Louis Camuti Feline Healthcare: http://maxshouse.com
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Phil (and anyone else who might help): > It’s been 7 months since I brought a dog into my cat-only household, and > they’re still not getting along. My friend, a 2nd-year vet student at Va > Tech, suggested I contact Cornell for a behavior consult. (I live 10 minutes > away.) Because this is such an expensive option for us right now, I’d like > your assessment of how likely they might be to help before I spend the > money. I know you’re involved with Cornell and might even, hopefully, be > able to guide me to a particularly good person or resource. > Emily is a 9-lb spayed 2 yr-old tuxedo cat. (See her at
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=982470&a=7216085&p=24518963 ) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Since we brought Orson, the 1.5 yr-old neutered male lab, into the house, > she’s pretty much taken to living in the basement. I’m concerned about her > quality of life. Yesterday we spent the day down there cleaning out for a > yard sale, and I haven’t seen her so happy in months. This confirms to me > that I need to get these two animals co-existing in the rest of the house. > She’s always been affectionate and very much a mama’s girl, and I don’t want > her becoming neurotic from lack of play and attention. We go down every day > a couple of times to give her attention and affection, but life being what > it is, we can’t spend copious amounts of time in the basement. > Emily’s always been very timid and skittish. Bringing an adolescent dog into > the house (please, no flames) cultivated this trait of hers even more. The > basement is her safe area, and that’s where she stays most of the time, > coming out occasionally to sleep in the bed with us at night when the dog is > crated. The dog has the run of the house except the basement. Because of our > floor plan and access to outside (for him and for us), this cannot change. > The dog is jealous of her, but being a good-natured lab, has shown signs > that he’d be able to be trained to leave her alone–if she ever showed her > face–which I see as the crux of the problem. Except for one extraordinary > time when they were in the same room for 10 minutes by accident, they just > simply don’t cross paths, because she won’t come out if she hears him in the > house. > So Phil, or anyone else with any knowledge of Cornell’s behavior consulting > service, do you think I have a good candidate for a behavior consultant? > thanks, > Cate
Response:
> Hi Cate, > Before opting for the behavior clinic, you may want to try keeping > Emily from having access to the basement, and providing vertical "safe > havens" for her upstairs.
This had crossed my mind, but I admit I originally dismissed it as too traumatic for her. But I suppose my overprotection may have helped get this situation where it is, eh? 
) Cats generally prefer the "high ground" – > bookshelves, the top of china cabinets, atop refrigerators – atop the > fridge would be a good place to keep her food & water bowls. You may > also want to get her a 5′ or 6′ cat tree. You can easily construct a > few high window perches with just two decorative shelf brackets and > finished 12" shelving covered with carpet. You can construct these > window perches across the center of the windows – where the upper and > lower sections meet so not to interfere with opening and closing or > blocking light. Window perch kits are available at Petsmart, however, > these kits rest on the window sill – might not be high enough for > Emily to feel safe.
We have one of the perches that sits on the sill, and it’s right at doggie mouth and nose level, so it doesn’t get used. ( Maybe I can figure out how to jury-rig it for the top of a window. Hm, you’ve got me thinking. > When I had dogs, also, my cats would travel from the living room, to > the dining room, to the kitchen without touching the floor! About > 60′! — reminiscent of "Tarzans" travelling through the "jungle" on > vines without touching the ground! > To a cat "up" is a good place to be! You can see farther, and you can > leap down on the "enemy"; you can check out your territory… and > you’re safe from the dog! So think "up"!
Yes, yes, yes! This is great, Phil. Sometimes we get stuck in ruts and just need a kick in the pants to see a different perspective. I’ll think ‘up’ for a few days and see if we can work something out where Emily’s forced to live in the same space, but not in reach of the dog. Maybe this will desensitize her to the point where we can do some behavior modification on both their parts. > I really think vertical safe havens will work – but if it they don’t, > I can put you in touch with someone at Cornell (who I firmly believe > was a cat in a previous life) who may (most likely will) have better > ideas which probably won’t require the behavior clinic.
Great. I believe neither animal has what I’d classify as a problem; rather, what we have is an animal management problem in the house. I’m going to think about keeping her out of the basement but still giving her free, un-dog-encumbered access to the rest of the house. Thanks for your ideas, Phil. I’ll keep you posted. Cate
Response:
> Cate, > How do you know the dog is jealous of the cat and not just very > interested and exuberant? What specifically is his behavior?
He’s definitely interested and exuberant, but I’m also concerned about his prey drive and what I believe to be his jealousy. There are times he’s seen her with us–but he couldn’t get to us–and he just barked and barked, and wagged his tail each time we looked at him. There are also times when he’s outside in the yard and can see her through the basement window, and he barks–though I wouldn’t attribute that to jealousy so much as territoriality. Same with when he barks when he sees her, from his crate, running across the hall at night to our bedroom at night to sleep with us. And then there’s when I reach inside the basement door to give her a quick pat. He stands a few feet behind me, silent after the initial Bitter Apple application when he barked, wagging his tail and staring intensely at her, then me, then her, then back to me. I know I shouldn’t often attribute human emotion to my dog, but in this case, I really think sometimes it’s jealousy. > If you have not already done so, enroll the dog in a basic obedience > class with a competent instructor. You can get a good idea of the > person’s ability by attending the last class in a series of classes and > see how the dogs behave. Train the dog first and then worry about > introductions.
He has been through one obedience course with a trainer locally considered to be highly competent. He progressed nicely during and after the course, and I intend to enroll him in another with her in the fall. He is not perfect, but our bond was strenghtened. He listens to us better, and we can read him better. > Also, be sure the dog gets plenty of exercise. A daily walk and a long > fetching game should work with a lab.
He gets two short walks plus 60 to 90 minutes of swimming and off-leash play with other dogs every day. Thanks for your suggestions and info; I really think the next move is the cat’s. Cate
Response:
Cate, How do you know the dog is jealous of the cat and not just very interested and exuberant? What specifically is his behavior? If you have not already done so, enroll the dog in a basic obedience class with a competent instructor. You can get a good idea of the person’s ability by attending the last class in a series of classes and see how the dogs behave. Train the dog first and then worry about introductions. Also, be sure the dog gets plenty of exercise. A daily walk and a long fetching game should work with a lab. Anne – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Phil (and anyone else who might help): > It’s been 7 months since I brought a dog into my cat-only household, and > they’re still not getting along. (snip) > Emily’s always been very timid and skittish. Bringing an adolescent dog into > the house (please, no flames) cultivated this trait of hers even more. The > basement is her safe area, and that’s where she stays most of the time, > coming out occasionally to sleep in the bed with us at night when the dog is > crated. (snip) > The dog is jealous of her, but being a good-natured lab, has shown signs > that he’d be able to be trained to leave her alone–if she ever showed her > face–which I see as the crux of the problem. Except for one extraordinary > time when they were in the same room for 10 minutes by accident, they just > simply don’t cross paths, because she won’t come out if she hears him in the > house. >(snip) > thanks, > Cate
Response:
Phil (and anyone else who might help): It’s been 7 months since I brought a dog into my cat-only household, and they’re still not getting along. My friend, a 2nd-year vet student at Va Tech, suggested I contact Cornell for a behavior consult. (I live 10 minutes away.) Because this is such an expensive option for us right now, I’d like your assessment of how likely they might be to help before I spend the money. I know you’re involved with Cornell and might even, hopefully, be able to guide me to a particularly good person or resource. Emily is a 9-lb spayed 2 yr-old tuxedo cat. (See her at http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=982470&a=7216085&p=24518963) Since we brought Orson, the 1.5 yr-old neutered male lab, into the house, she’s pretty much taken to living in the basement. I’m concerned about her quality of life. Yesterday we spent the day down there cleaning out for a yard sale, and I haven’t seen her so happy in months. This confirms to me that I need to get these two animals co-existing in the rest of the house. She’s always been affectionate and very much a mama’s girl, and I don’t want her becoming neurotic from lack of play and attention. We go down every day a couple of times to give her attention and affection, but life being what it is, we can’t spend copious amounts of time in the basement. Emily’s always been very timid and skittish. Bringing an adolescent dog into the house (please, no flames) cultivated this trait of hers even more. The basement is her safe area, and that’s where she stays most of the time, coming out occasionally to sleep in the bed with us at night when the dog is crated. The dog has the run of the house except the basement. Because of our floor plan and access to outside (for him and for us), this cannot change. The dog is jealous of her, but being a good-natured lab, has shown signs that he’d be able to be trained to leave her alone–if she ever showed her face–which I see as the crux of the problem. Except for one extraordinary time when they were in the same room for 10 minutes by accident, they just simply don’t cross paths, because she won’t come out if she hears him in the house. So Phil, or anyone else with any knowledge of Cornell’s behavior consulting service, do you think I have a good candidate for a behavior consultant? thanks, Cate
Response:
Hi Cate, Before opting for the behavior clinic, you may want to try keeping Emily from having access to the basement, and providing vertical "safe havens" for her upstairs. Cats generally prefer the "high ground" – bookshelves, the top of china cabinets, atop refrigerators – atop the fridge would be a good place to keep her food & water bowls. You may also want to get her a 5′ or 6′ cat tree. You can easily construct a few high window perches with just two decorative shelf brackets and finished 12" shelving covered with carpet. You can construct these window perches across the center of the windows – where the upper and lower sections meet so not to interfere with opening and closing or blocking light. Window perch kits are available at Petsmart, however, these kits rest on the window sill – might not be high enough for Emily to feel safe. When I had dogs, also, my cats would travel from the living room, to the dining room, to the kitchen without touching the floor! About 60′! — reminiscent of "Tarzans" travelling through the "jungle" on vines without touching the ground! To a cat "up" is a good place to be! You can see farther, and you can leap down on the "enemy"; you can check out your territory… and you’re safe from the dog! So think "up"! I really think vertical safe havens will work – but if it they don’t, I can put you in touch with someone at Cornell (who I firmly believe was a cat in a previous life) who may (most likely will) have better ideas which probably won’t require the behavior clinic. Let me what you think. Good luck. Phil. — "Cat people are different, to the extent that they generally are not conformists. How could the be, with a cat running their lives?" –Louis Camuti Feline Healthcare: http://maxshouse.com
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Phil (and anyone else who might help): > It’s been 7 months since I brought a dog into my cat-only household, and > they’re still not getting along. My friend, a 2nd-year vet student at Va > Tech, suggested I contact Cornell for a behavior consult. (I live 10 minutes > away.) Because this is such an expensive option for us right now, I’d like > your assessment of how likely they might be to help before I spend the > money. I know you’re involved with Cornell and might even, hopefully, be > able to guide me to a particularly good person or resource. > Emily is a 9-lb spayed 2 yr-old tuxedo cat. (See her at
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=982470&a=7216085&p=24518963 ) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Since we brought Orson, the 1.5 yr-old neutered male lab, into the house, > she’s pretty much taken to living in the basement. I’m concerned about her > quality of life. Yesterday we spent the day down there cleaning out for a > yard sale, and I haven’t seen her so happy in months. This confirms to me > that I need to get these two animals co-existing in the rest of the house. > She’s always been affectionate and very much a mama’s girl, and I don’t want > her becoming neurotic from lack of play and attention. We go down every day > a couple of times to give her attention and affection, but life being what > it is, we can’t spend copious amounts of time in the basement. > Emily’s always been very timid and skittish. Bringing an adolescent dog into > the house (please, no flames) cultivated this trait of hers even more. The > basement is her safe area, and that’s where she stays most of the time, > coming out occasionally to sleep in the bed with us at night when the dog is > crated. The dog has the run of the house except the basement. Because of our > floor plan and access to outside (for him and for us), this cannot change. > The dog is jealous of her, but being a good-natured lab, has shown signs > that he’d be able to be trained to leave her alone–if she ever showed her > face–which I see as the crux of the problem. Except for one extraordinary > time when they were in the same room for 10 minutes by accident, they just > simply don’t cross paths, because she won’t come out if she hears him in the > house. > So Phil, or anyone else with any knowledge of Cornell’s behavior consulting > service, do you think I have a good candidate for a behavior consultant? > thanks, > Cate
Response:
> Hi Cate, > Before opting for the behavior clinic, you may want to try keeping > Emily from having access to the basement, and providing vertical "safe > havens" for her upstairs.
This had crossed my mind, but I admit I originally dismissed it as too traumatic for her. But I suppose my overprotection may have helped get this situation where it is, eh? ) Cats generally prefer the "high ground" – > bookshelves, the top of china cabinets, atop refrigerators – atop the > fridge would be a good place to keep her food & water bowls. You may > also want to get her a 5′ or 6′ cat tree. You can easily construct a > few high window perches with just two decorative shelf brackets and > finished 12" shelving covered with carpet. You can construct these > window perches across the center of the windows – where the upper and > lower sections meet so not to interfere with opening and closing or > blocking light. Window perch kits are available at Petsmart, however, > these kits rest on the window sill – might not be high enough for > Emily to feel safe.
We have one of the perches that sits on the sill, and it’s right at doggie mouth and nose level, so it doesn’t get used. ( Maybe I can figure out how to jury-rig it for the top of a window. Hm, you’ve got me thinking. > When I had dogs, also, my cats would travel from the living room, to > the dining room, to the kitchen without touching the floor! About > 60′! — reminiscent of "Tarzans" travelling through the "jungle" on > vines without touching the ground! > To a cat "up" is a good place to be! You can see farther, and you can > leap down on the "enemy"; you can check out your territory… and > you’re safe from the dog! So think "up"!
Yes, yes, yes! This is great, Phil. Sometimes we get stuck in ruts and just need a kick in the pants to see a different perspective. I’ll think ‘up’ for a few days and see if we can work something out where Emily’s forced to live in the same space, but not in reach of the dog. Maybe this will desensitize her to the point where we can do some behavior modification on both their parts. > I really think vertical safe havens will work – but if it they don’t, > I can put you in touch with someone at Cornell (who I firmly believe > was a cat in a previous life) who may (most likely will) have better > ideas which probably won’t require the behavior clinic.
Great. I believe neither animal has what I’d classify as a problem; rather, what we have is an animal management problem in the house. I’m going to think about keeping her out of the basement but still giving her free, un-dog-encumbered access to the rest of the house. Thanks for your ideas, Phil. I’ll keep you posted. Cate
Response:
> Cate, > How do you know the dog is jealous of the cat and not just very > interested and exuberant? What specifically is his behavior?
He’s definitely interested and exuberant, but I’m also concerned about his prey drive and what I believe to be his jealousy. There are times he’s seen her with us–but he couldn’t get to us–and he just barked and barked, and wagged his tail each time we looked at him. There are also times when he’s outside in the yard and can see her through the basement window, and he barks–though I wouldn’t attribute that to jealousy so much as territoriality. Same with when he barks when he sees her, from his crate, running across the hall at night to our bedroom at night to sleep with us. And then there’s when I reach inside the basement door to give her a quick pat. He stands a few feet behind me, silent after the initial Bitter Apple application when he barked, wagging his tail and staring intensely at her, then me, then her, then back to me. I know I shouldn’t often attribute human emotion to my dog, but in this case, I really think sometimes it’s jealousy. > If you have not already done so, enroll the dog in a basic obedience > class with a competent instructor. You can get a good idea of the > person’s ability by attending the last class in a series of classes and > see how the dogs behave. Train the dog first and then worry about > introductions.
He has been through one obedience course with a trainer locally considered to be highly competent. He progressed nicely during and after the course, and I intend to enroll him in another with her in the fall. He is not perfect, but our bond was strenghtened. He listens to us better, and we can read him better. > Also, be sure the dog gets plenty of exercise. A daily walk and a long > fetching game should work with a lab.
He gets two short walks plus 60 to 90 minutes of swimming and off-leash play with other dogs every day. Thanks for your suggestions and info; I really think the next move is the cat’s. Cate
Response:
Cate, How do you know the dog is jealous of the cat and not just very interested and exuberant? What specifically is his behavior? If you have not already done so, enroll the dog in a basic obedience class with a competent instructor. You can get a good idea of the person’s ability by attending the last class in a series of classes and see how the dogs behave. Train the dog first and then worry about introductions. Also, be sure the dog gets plenty of exercise. A daily walk and a long fetching game should work with a lab. Anne – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Phil (and anyone else who might help): > It’s been 7 months since I brought a dog into my cat-only household, and > they’re still not getting along. (snip) > Emily’s always been very timid and skittish. Bringing an adolescent dog into > the house (please, no flames) cultivated this trait of hers even more. The > basement is her safe area, and that’s where she stays most of the time, > coming out occasionally to sleep in the bed with us at night when the dog is > crated. (snip) > The dog is jealous of her, but being a good-natured lab, has shown signs > that he’d be able to be trained to leave her alone–if she ever showed her > face–which I see as the crux of the problem. Except for one extraordinary > time when they were in the same room for 10 minutes by accident, they just > simply don’t cross paths, because she won’t come out if she hears him in the > house. >(snip) > thanks, > Cate
Response:
Phil (and anyone else who might help): It’s been 7 months since I brought a dog into my cat-only household, and they’re still not getting along. My friend, a 2nd-year vet student at Va Tech, suggested I contact Cornell for a behavior consult. (I live 10 minutes away.) Because this is such an expensive option for us right now, I’d like your assessment of how likely they might be to help before I spend the money. I know you’re involved with Cornell and might even, hopefully, be able to guide me to a particularly good person or resource. Emily is a 9-lb spayed 2 yr-old tuxedo cat. (See her at http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=982470&a=7216085&p=24518963) Since we brought Orson, the 1.5 yr-old neutered male lab, into the house, she’s pretty much taken to living in the basement. I’m concerned about her quality of life. Yesterday we spent the day down there cleaning out for a yard sale, and I haven’t seen her so happy in months. This confirms to me that I need to get these two animals co-existing in the rest of the house. She’s always been affectionate and very much a mama’s girl, and I don’t want her becoming neurotic from lack of play and attention. We go down every day a couple of times to give her attention and affection, but life being what it is, we can’t spend copious amounts of time in the basement. Emily’s always been very timid and skittish. Bringing an adolescent dog into the house (please, no flames) cultivated this trait of hers even more. The basement is her safe area, and that’s where she stays most of the time, coming out occasionally to sleep in the bed with us at night when the dog is crated. The dog has the run of the house except the basement. Because of our floor plan and access to outside (for him and for us), this cannot change. The dog is jealous of her, but being a good-natured lab, has shown signs that he’d be able to be trained to leave her alone–if she ever showed her face–which I see as the crux of the problem. Except for one extraordinary time when they were in the same room for 10 minutes by accident, they just simply don’t cross paths, because she won’t come out if she hears him in the house. So Phil, or anyone else with any knowledge of Cornell’s behavior consulting service, do you think I have a good candidate for a behavior consultant? thanks, Cate
Response:
Hi Cate, Before opting for the behavior clinic, you may want to try keeping Emily from having access to the basement, and providing vertical "safe havens" for her upstairs. Cats generally prefer the "high ground" – bookshelves, the top of china cabinets, atop refrigerators – atop the fridge would be a good place to keep her food & water bowls. You may also want to get her a 5′ or 6′ cat tree. You can easily construct a few high window perches with just two decorative shelf brackets and finished 12" shelving covered with carpet. You can construct these window perches across the center of the windows – where the upper and lower sections meet so not to interfere with opening and closing or blocking light. Window perch kits are available at Petsmart, however, these kits rest on the window sill – might not be high enough for Emily to feel safe. When I had dogs, also, my cats would travel from the living room, to the dining room, to the kitchen without touching the floor! About 60′! — reminiscent of "Tarzans" travelling through the "jungle" on vines without touching the ground! To a cat "up" is a good place to be! You can see farther, and you can leap down on the "enemy"; you can check out your territory… and you’re safe from the dog! So think "up"! I really think vertical safe havens will work – but if it they don’t, I can put you in touch with someone at Cornell (who I firmly believe was a cat in a previous life) who may (most likely will) have better ideas which probably won’t require the behavior clinic. Let me what you think. Good luck. Phil. — "Cat people are different, to the extent that they generally are not conformists. How could the be, with a cat running their lives?" –Louis Camuti Feline Healthcare: http://maxshouse.com
– Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Phil (and anyone else who might help): > It’s been 7 months since I brought a dog into my cat-only household, and > they’re still not getting along. My friend, a 2nd-year vet student at Va > Tech, suggested I contact Cornell for a behavior consult. (I live 10 minutes > away.) Because this is such an expensive option for us right now, I’d like > your assessment of how likely they might be to help before I spend the > money. I know you’re involved with Cornell and might even, hopefully, be > able to guide me to a particularly good person or resource. > Emily is a 9-lb spayed 2 yr-old tuxedo cat. (See her at
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=982470&a=7216085&p=24518963 ) – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Since we brought Orson, the 1.5 yr-old neutered male lab, into the house, > she’s pretty much taken to living in the basement. I’m concerned about her > quality of life. Yesterday we spent the day down there cleaning out for a > yard sale, and I haven’t seen her so happy in months. This confirms to me > that I need to get these two animals co-existing in the rest of the house. > She’s always been affectionate and very much a mama’s girl, and I don’t want > her becoming neurotic from lack of play and attention. We go down every day > a couple of times to give her attention and affection, but life being what > it is, we can’t spend copious amounts of time in the basement. > Emily’s always been very timid and skittish. Bringing an adolescent dog into > the house (please, no flames) cultivated this trait of hers even more. The > basement is her safe area, and that’s where she stays most of the time, > coming out occasionally to sleep in the bed with us at night when the dog is > crated. The dog has the run of the house except the basement. Because of our > floor plan and access to outside (for him and for us), this cannot change. > The dog is jealous of her, but being a good-natured lab, has shown signs > that he’d be able to be trained to leave her alone–if she ever showed her > face–which I see as the crux of the problem. Except for one extraordinary > time when they were in the same room for 10 minutes by accident, they just > simply don’t cross paths, because she won’t come out if she hears him in the > house. > So Phil, or anyone else with any knowledge of Cornell’s behavior consulting > service, do you think I have a good candidate for a behavior consultant? > thanks, > Cate
Response:
> Hi Cate, > Before opting for the behavior clinic, you may want to try keeping > Emily from having access to the basement, and providing vertical "safe > havens" for her upstairs.
This had crossed my mind, but I admit I originally dismissed it as too traumatic for her. But I suppose my overprotection may have helped get this situation where it is, eh? ) Cats generally prefer the "high ground" – > bookshelves, the top of china cabinets, atop refrigerators – atop the > fridge would be a good place to keep her food & water bowls. You may > also want to get her a 5′ or 6′ cat tree. You can easily construct a > few high window perches with just two decorative shelf brackets and > finished 12" shelving covered with carpet. You can construct these > window perches across the center of the windows – where the upper and > lower sections meet so not to interfere with opening and closing or > blocking light. Window perch kits are available at Petsmart, however, > these kits rest on the window sill – might not be high enough for > Emily to feel safe.
We have one of the perches that sits on the sill, and it’s right at doggie mouth and nose level, so it doesn’t get used. ( Maybe I can figure out how to jury-rig it for the top of a window. Hm, you’ve got me thinking. > When I had dogs, also, my cats would travel from the living room, to > the dining room, to the kitchen without touching the floor! About > 60′! — reminiscent of "Tarzans" travelling through the "jungle" on > vines without touching the ground! > To a cat "up" is a good place to be! You can see farther, and you can > leap down on the "enemy"; you can check out your territory… and > you’re safe from the dog! So think "up"!
Yes, yes, yes! This is great, Phil. Sometimes we get stuck in ruts and just need a kick in the pants to see a different perspective. I’ll think ‘up’ for a few days and see if we can work something out where Emily’s forced to live in the same space, but not in reach of the dog. Maybe this will desensitize her to the point where we can do some behavior modification on both their parts. > I really think vertical safe havens will work – but if it they don’t, > I can put you in touch with someone at Cornell (who I firmly believe > was a cat in a previous life) who may (most likely will) have better > ideas which probably won’t require the behavior clinic.
Great. I believe neither animal has what I’d classify as a problem; rather, what we have is an animal management problem in the house. I’m going to think about keeping her out of the basement but still giving her free, un-dog-encumbered access to the rest of the house. Thanks for your ideas, Phil. I’ll keep you posted. Cate
Response:
> Cate, > How do you know the dog is jealous of the cat and not just very > interested and exuberant? What specifically is his behavior?
He’s definitely interested and exuberant, but I’m also concerned about his prey drive and what I believe to be his jealousy. There are times he’s seen her with us–but he couldn’t get to us–and he just barked and barked, and wagged his tail each time we looked at him. There are also times when he’s outside in the yard and can see her through the basement window, and he barks–though I wouldn’t attribute that to jealousy so much as territoriality. Same with when he barks when he sees her, from his crate, running across the hall at night to our bedroom at night to sleep with us. And then there’s when I reach inside the basement door to give her a quick pat. He stands a few feet behind me, silent after the initial Bitter Apple application when he barked, wagging his tail and staring intensely at her, then me, then her, then back to me. I know I shouldn’t often attribute human emotion to my dog, but in this case, I really think sometimes it’s jealousy. > If you have not already done so, enroll the dog in a basic obedience > class with a competent instructor. You can get a good idea of the > person’s ability by attending the last class in a series of classes and > see how the dogs behave. Train the dog first and then worry about > introductions.
He has been through one obedience course with a trainer locally considered to be highly competent. He progressed nicely during and after the course, and I intend to enroll him in another with her in the fall. He is not perfect, but our bond was strenghtened. He listens to us better, and we can read him better. > Also, be sure the dog gets plenty of exercise. A daily walk and a long > fetching game should work with a lab.
He gets two short walks plus 60 to 90 minutes of swimming and off-leash play with other dogs every day. Thanks for your suggestions and info; I really think the next move is the cat’s. Cate
Response:
Cate, How do you know the dog is jealous of the cat and not just very interested and exuberant? What specifically is his behavior? If you have not already done so, enroll the dog in a basic obedience class with a competent instructor. You can get a good idea of the person’s ability by attending the last class in a series of classes and see how the dogs behave. Train the dog first and then worry about introductions. Also, be sure the dog gets plenty of exercise. A daily walk and a long fetching game should work with a lab. Anne – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > Phil (and anyone else who might help): > It’s been 7 months since I brought a dog into my cat-only household, and > they’re still not getting along. (snip) > Emily’s always been very timid and skittish. Bringing an adolescent dog into > the house (please, no flames) cultivated this trait of hers even more. The > basement is her safe area, and that’s where she stays most of the time, > coming out occasionally to sleep in the bed with us at night when the dog is > crated. (snip) > The dog is jealous of her, but being a good-natured lab, has shown signs > that he’d be able to be trained to leave her alone–if she ever showed her > face–which I see as the crux of the problem. Except for one extraordinary > time when they were in the same room for 10 minutes by accident, they just > simply don’t cross paths, because she won’t come out if she hears him in the > house. >(snip) > thanks, > Cate
Response:
Phil (and anyone else who might help): It’s been 7 months since I brought a dog into my cat-only household, and they’re still not getting along. My friend, a 2nd-year vet student at Va Tech, suggested I contact Cornell for a behavior consult. (I live 10 minutes away.) Because this is such an expensive option for us right now, I’d like your assessment of how likely they might be to help before I spend the money. I know you’re involved with Cornell and might even, hopefully, be able to guide me to a particularly good person or resource. Emily is a 9-lb spayed 2 yr-old tuxedo cat. (See her at http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=982470&a=7216085&p=24518963) Since we brought Orson, the 1.5 yr-old neutered male lab, into the house, she’s pretty much taken to living in the basement. I’m concerned about her quality of life. Yesterday we spent the day down there cleaning out for a yard sale, and I haven’t seen her so happy in months. This confirms to me that I need to get these two animals co-existing in the rest of the house. She’s always been affectionate and very much a mama’s girl, and I don’t want her becoming neurotic from lack of play and attention. We go down every day a couple of times to give her attention and affection, but life being what it is, we can’t spend copious amounts of time in the basement. Emily’s always been very timid and skittish. Bringing an adolescent dog into the house (please, no flames) cultivated this trait of hers even more. The basement is her safe area, and that’s where she stays most of the time, coming out occasionally to sleep in the bed with us at night when the dog is crated. The dog has the run of the house except the basement. Because of our floor plan and access to outside (for him and for us), this cannot change. The dog is jealous of her, but being a good-natured lab, has shown signs that he’d be able to be trained to leave her alone–if she ever showed her face–which I see as the crux of the problem. Except for one extraordinary time when they were in the same room for 10 minutes by accident, they just simply don’t cross paths, because she won’t come out if she hears him in the house. So Phil, or anyone else with any knowledge of Cornell’s behavior consulting service, do you think I have a good candidate for a behavior consultant? thanks, Cate
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